Falafel

Rinse the chickpeas, cover with three times their volume of cold water and soak for 12–24 hours. They'll double in size.

Soaking takes a long time, so start the night before. Cooked or canned chickpeas won't work — the balls fall apart in the oil.

Drain the chickpeas and pat them thoroughly dry with a towel.

Put the chickpeas, roughly chopped onion, garlic, herbs, spices and salt into a food processor. Pulse until it looks like damp sand — not a smooth paste.

Mix in the baking soda and chill the mixture.

With wet hands, roll walnut-sized balls and flatten them slightly.

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan to 175 °C — a pinch of the mixture should sizzle and float right away. Fry in batches of 5–6 until deep golden brown.

Fill the pan no more than a third full and lower the balls in with a spoon, away from you. Hot oil spatters — keep a lid nearby and never pour water on it.

Lift the falafel out with a slotted spoon onto paper towels to drain. Serve hot. Done!